Fabulously Delicious: The French Food Podcast

The Story Of Paul Bocuse

Andrew Prior Season 5 Episode 25

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In this episode of Fabulously Delicious: The French Food Podcast, we dive into the extraordinary life and culinary legacy of Paul Bocuse, one of the most influential chefs in the history of French cuisine. Known as the “Pope of Gastronomy,” Bocuse revolutionized modern French cooking while fiercely preserving the traditions that made it so beloved. From his humble beginnings near Lyon to becoming a three-Michelin-starred chef for over 50 years, Bocuse's story is one of passion, innovation, and timeless excellence.

We explore every fascinating chapter of his life — his celebrated title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France, the creation of the world-renowned Soupe VGE, and his global influence through restaurants, brasseries, and the prestigious Bocuse d'Or competition. Beyond the kitchen, we also look at his complex personal life, including the relationships that shaped him, and the family legacy that continues to honor his name today.

Listeners will learn how Bocuse helped define and popularize nouvelle cuisine, mentored generations of chefs, and brought French food to international stages from Disney World to Japan. You'll also hear touching reflections on his passing, the tributes he received, and why even today, his impact on gastronomy remains unmatched.

Whether you're a devoted foodie, a Francophile, or simply love a good story about brilliance, resilience, and flavor, this episode is for you. Tune in, and let’s celebrate the man who turned cooking into a lifelong art form — Paul Bocuse. Bon appétit!

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Bonjour and bienvenue! You’re listening to Fabulously Delicious: The French Food Podcast, and today’s episode is a very special one in our The Story Of series — where we dive into the lives of the most iconic figures in French culinary history. These are the pioneers, the innovators, the legends whose work transformed kitchens across the globe.

From humble beginnings to groundbreaking achievements, personal passions, and enduring legacies — we uncover the stories behind the names that continue to inspire chefs and food lovers everywhere.

I’m your host, Andrew Prior — enchanté! A former MasterChef Australia contestant now living in beautiful Montmorillon, France. French food, history, and culture are my everyday passions, and through this series, I aim to bring the fabulous stories of France’s greatest culinary stars to life.

And today, we’re telling the story of none other than Paul Bocuse — the legendary chef who became a global symbol of French gastronomy. From his revolutionary approach to cuisine, to his deeply personal life and unmatched influence, we’ll explore the man behind the chef’s whites.

So pour yourself a glass of good wine, grab some cheese and a few slices of saucisson, and settle in — as we uncover the extraordinary life of Paul Bocuse, right here on Fabulously Delicious.

Let’s set the scene in the Rhône-Alpes region of France, just north of Lyon, in a small, charming municipality called Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or. On Thursday the 11th of February 1926, in a house nestled beside the banks of the Saône River, a boy was born who would grow up to be known as the Pope of Gastronomy—Paul François Pierre Bocuse. This wasn’t just any house, mind you. It was a home that would one day become the very heart of French haute cuisine: the legendary Auberge du Pont de Collonges. And yes, that same house still serves guests today, albeit now with two Michelin stars instead of the three it famously held for decades under Monsieur Paul’s reign.

Paul was the only son of Georges Bocuse and Irma Roulier. The Bocuse family name already rang with culinary promise. According to family lore, the lineage of cooks stretched all the way back to the 17th century. Picture it: a certain Michel Bocuse and his wife serving up rustic delights—fried foods, regional cheeses, and what was charmingly referred to as “junk,” a word far more appetizing in old French dialects than in modern English. Suffice it to say, cooking was in Paul’s blood, thick as a good sauce béarnaise.

On his father’s side, Paul's grandfather Joseph Bocuse ran the family’s first restaurant in Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or. Meanwhile, just a short stroll away—barely 400 meters—his maternal grandparents were running the Hôtel du Pont. In 1936, Paul's parents, Georges and Irma, decided to merge family and professional life by moving into the Hôtel du Pont. It was there that the next chapter of the Bocuse legacy would begin, as the hotel was transformed into the now-famous Auberge du Pont, setting the table, quite literally, for a culinary dynasty.

Though born into a world of copper pots and simmering stock, young Paul Bocuse was not immediately the model student. In fact, he was known to be rather turbulent at school. But his father Georges had a clear solution—put the boy to work. At the age of 16, Paul began his first culinary apprenticeship under chef Claude Maret at the Restaurant de la Soierie in Lyon. And while some teenagers might have balked at the thought of early mornings, hot kitchens, and the rigors of classical French technique, Paul found his rhythm amid the steam and clatter of a professional kitchen.

But Paul was never just a cook-in-training. Even in his youth, he was defined by passions that extended beyond the kitchen. He adored fishing and hunting—pastimes that connected him with the land and the seasons, which would go on to deeply influence his culinary philosophy. Nature, he believed, should guide the cook. The terroir, the rhythm of the seasons—these were to be respected, celebrated, and never over-complicated.

He would become known throughout France and the world as Monsieur Paul, a title delivered with warmth and respect. But at the core, he remained deeply tied to his roots—never leaving Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or, and never forgetting that his story, and that of French cuisine, began in the humblest of kitchens. It's fitting that the restaurant where he was born, quite literally, remains the centerpiece of his empire.

So, from a baby born beside the Saône to a boy with a rebellious streak, to the man who would become a symbol of French culinary excellence—it all began in Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or. And if those walls of the Auberge could talk, they’d likely say, “Pass the quenelles, and tell us another story about Monsieur Paul.”

By the time Paul Bocuse turned eighteen, the world was still deep in the grip of war. But Paul, never one to sit idle or stay safe on the sidelines, made a choice that would define not only his character but his life’s philosophy. He voluntarily enlisted in General Charles de Gaulle’s Free French Forces—joining the 1st Free French Division—and headed straight into the fray with the French Liberation Army. It was a bold move for someone so young, but as we’ll come to see, Bocuse never did anything by half measures.

His time in the military was marked by both courage and sacrifice. During fierce fighting in Alsace, Bocuse was severely wounded, struck by a German bullet. His injuries were serious enough that he was taken in by an American field hospital. And it was there, in a moment of international camaraderie and a bit of youthful bravado, that American soldiers tattooed a Gallic rooster—the proud symbol of France—onto his left shoulder. That tattoo would become as much a part of his legend as the white chef’s jacket and tall toque he’d wear for decades. For his service, he was awarded the Croix de Guerre 1939–1945, one of France’s highest military honors. Reflecting on those wartime experiences, Bocuse once said, “Life can end at any second. So you have to work as if you were going to die at 100 and live as if you were going to die tomorrow.” A sentiment as rich and profound as any sauce he would later craft.

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In the years following the war, as France began to rebuild and life cautiously returned to normal, Paul’s path took a more personal turn. On Tuesday the 6th of August, 1946, just months after the conflict ended, he married Raymonde Duvert. They had met before the war—she was just sixteen when their eyes first met, a young blonde girl with a steady gaze and, as it turned out, a talent for managing a restaurant. Raymonde would go on to become a pillar of support in Paul’s professional world, overseeing the daily operations of the family restaurant with a quiet determination that matched Paul’s fiery passion.

The following year, the Bocuse family grew with the birth of their daughter, Françoise. And just as Paul carried on the tradition of his own forebears, Françoise would grow up immersed in the world of fine food. She later married Jean-Jacques Bernachon, one of Lyon’s most celebrated chocolatier-pâtissiers. Together, they not only continued the family’s gastronomic legacy but also gave Paul three beloved grandchildren. It was becoming clear: in the Bocuse family, food wasn’t just a profession—it was a calling.

Freed from his military duties and just 20 years old, Paul returned to the kitchen with renewed purpose. He wasn’t content with just learning the family trade; he wanted to train with the very best. And in postwar France, that meant turning to the formidable Eugénie Brazier—known simply as “La Mère Brazier.” Her restaurant at the Col de la Luère in Pollionnay, perched in the hills outside Lyon, was no ordinary kitchen. It was a temple of gastronomy, presided over by a woman who had earned not one, but two sets of three Michelin stars at a time when very few chefs—male or female—had achieved even one.

Under Mère Brazier’s stern but nurturing guidance, Bocuse was immersed in the traditions of Lyonnaise cuisine, a style defined by richness, simplicity, and soul. She represented the very best of the "Mères Lyonnaises," the legendary women who helped shape French cuisine into what it is today. These were no-nonsense women who knew the value of hard work and the transformative power of a well-cooked meal. It was here, under her watchful eye, that Paul began to truly understand not just how to cook, but how to lead, how to elevate a dish into an experience, and how to honor tradition while dreaming of innovation.

This formative time with Mère Brazier planted the seeds of what would become Bocuse’s own culinary philosophy—a reverence for heritage paired with a drive to push boundaries. It was the perfect preparation for the role he would go on to play: not just a chef, but an ambassador for French cuisine. From the battlefield to the bistro, Paul Bocuse was already proving that he was a man of extraordinary dedication, passion, and purpose.

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With an insatiable hunger to improve and refine his craft, the young Paul Bocuse made his way to Paris—France’s bustling culinary capital. There, in the elegant 8th arrondissement at Lucas Carton on Place de la Madeleine, he trained under the esteemed chef Gaston Richard. This wasn’t just another kitchen job. Lucas Carton was one of Paris’s most prestigious dining establishments, and the experience allowed Bocuse to sharpen his skills among the best. But it wasn’t just the food that made a mark—this was also where Paul met two fellow young chefs who would become lifelong friends and legendary figures in their own right: Pierre and Jean Troisgros. Together, the Troisgros brothers and Bocuse would go on to form one of the most iconic culinary brotherhoods in French gastronomy.

Always eager to learn more, Bocuse sought out other opportunities to observe and absorb. He spent time in the kitchens of Fines Fourchettes in Charbonnières-les-Bains, where he crossed paths once again with Claude Maret—his very first mentor from Lyon, now a seasoned restaurateur and former sailor. Maret, who would later go on to become president of the Syndicat de la Cuisine, remained a figure of inspiration and pride for Bocuse throughout his life.

But perhaps the most transformative chapter in this phase of Bocuse’s career unfolded in the town of Vienne, just south of Lyon, at the legendary restaurant La Pyramide. In the 1950s, he reunited with Pierre and Jean Troisgros under the guidance of the great Fernand Point, a towering figure in 20th-century French cuisine. Point was more than just a chef—he was a visionary. Often regarded as the spiritual father of nouvelle cuisine, he championed a lighter, more refined approach to French gastronomy. For eight formative years, Bocuse trained at La Pyramide under Point and alongside another master, Paul Mercier. It was here, under Point’s meticulous yet generous mentorship, that Bocuse truly began to evolve into the chef the world would come to revere.

In 1958, now a fully-fledged culinary craftsman, Bocuse returned home to Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or. He reunited with his father, Georges, and the two earned their first Michelin star together. Tragically, Georges passed away just a year later, leaving Paul to take over the family restaurant—L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges. What followed was nothing short of extraordinary. Under Paul's leadership, the auberge was transformed from a solid local institution into a world-renowned gastronomic destination. In 1965, it was awarded three Michelin stars—and then held onto that elusive honor for an astonishing 55 years, a record that still inspires awe.

The restaurant itself, nestled on the banks of the Saône River just outside Lyon, was originally founded in 1924 under the name "L'Hôtel du Pont." It had been taken over by Georges Bocuse in 1937, but it was Paul who gave it its signature identity. After taking over in 1957, he renamed it "L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges – Restaurant Paul Bocuse" in 1965, coinciding with its three-star triumph. The auberge became one of the great temples of French cuisine, serving up refined yet deeply traditional dishes in a space adorned with vibrant sculptures and paintings—many by Bocuse himself. It wasn’t just a restaurant; it was a theatrical homage to the joy of eating well.

Even after his passing, the restaurant continued to operate under the stewardship of director Vincent Le Roux and head chef Gilles Reinhardt, who was named Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2004. Together, they upheld the meticulous attention to detail that defined the Bocuse legacy. The service remained formal, almost ceremonial—with the famed pedestal service and dishes carved or presented tableside. But in 2020, a seismic shift occurred in the culinary world: for the first time since 1965, the restaurant lost one of its Michelin stars. The decision sparked controversy across France, with many questioning how such a cornerstone of French gastronomy could be downgraded. Yet, for many diners and admirers, the essence of Bocuse’s cuisine remained intact—a celebration of flavor, heritage, and heart.

Beyond the auberge, Bocuse also sought to bring French cuisine to a broader audience. He developed a chain of brasseries across Lyon, each paying tribute to a cardinal point on the compass: Le Nord, L’Est, Le Sud, and L’Ouest. These restaurants offered a more relaxed, approachable take on classic French fare, while still echoing the high standards that Bocuse had made his name on. Each brasserie had its own personality and menu focus, offering everything from rustic northern stews to sun-kissed Provençal dishes. It was a way for Monsieur Paul to democratize good food—making sure French culinary excellence could be experienced beyond the fine dining elite.

In 1961, Paul Bocuse achieved what he would later describe as his proudest professional accomplishment—winning the prestigious title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France, or Best Worker of France. It was the only culinary competition he ever entered, having tried once before in 1958 without success. But this time, he triumphed. The award, symbolized by the iconic blue-white-red collar stitched onto his chef's whites, wasn't just a decoration. It was a symbol of craftsmanship, rigor, and mastery. For Bocuse, it was a lifelong badge of honor—and in the years that followed, he surrounded himself with a team that would include many more MOFs, ensuring that excellence remained at the heart of his kitchen.

The accolades continued to roll in. In 1962, he earned his second Michelin star, and by 1965, his third. That triple-star rating would hold for an incredible 55 years. Paul Bocuse had officially arrived, not just as a brilliant cook, but as a defining figure in the world of haute cuisine. His name became synonymous with precision, tradition, and elegance. Dressed in his immaculate white jacket bearing his name and that tricolor collar, Bocuse looked every bit the culinary general he was becoming—a leader of a gastronomic movement that was captivating the world.

Then, in 1966, a new chapter began—one that would take him far beyond France. Thanks to the influential critics Henri Gault and Christian Millau, Bocuse was introduced to the United States through an exclusive culinary tour. In cities across America, he prepared exquisite meals for elite audiences—private dinners hosted by some of the wealthiest and most powerful individuals in the country. These transatlantic dinners were more than just social events; they were a cultural exchange, and Bocuse became one of the first great French chefs to bring classic Gallic gastronomy to American soil. It marked the beginning of an international legacy.

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While his professional life soared, Bocuse’s personal life was, shall we say, more… unconventional. In 1969, he had a son named Jérôme with his second partner, Raymone, a former clinic director. Though Bocuse officially recognized Jérôme at the age of 18, their bond grew strong. Jérôme would go on to follow in his father’s footsteps, first managing the Bocuse Group’s American restaurants, and eventually becoming president of Pôle Développement Groupe Bocuse in 2015. Like his father, Jérôme also gave the family another Paul Bocuse—a grandson who carries on the legendary name.

Adding to the complexities of his personal world, Bocuse began a relationship in 1971 with Patricia Zizza, who managed his public relations. Between Raymonde, Raymone, and Patricia, the chef’s love life became a subject of public curiosity—earning the nickname “Bocuse Trigamy.” When writing his biography, Bocuse reflected on his unconventional family arrangement with typical bluntness and humor. “If I count the number of years in which I was faithful to the three women I met on my way,” he wrote, “I reach 135 years of shared life.” But he also showed a rare touch of vulnerability, adding: “I have no regrets, except for the pain I caused to my women. I hope they will forgive me.”

Despite—or perhaps because of—his bold personality, Bocuse was frequently called upon to cook for the highest of dignitaries. In 1975, he created one of his most iconic dishes: Soupe aux truffes V.G.E., a luxurious black truffle soup made for a presidential dinner at the Élysée Palace. The name “V.G.E.” honors President Valéry Giscard d’Estaing, who awarded Bocuse the Légion d’Honneur, France’s highest civilian distinction. The medal was presented to him on February 25, 1975. Since then, that very soup has become a signature dish at L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges, served in its iconic puff pastry dome, rich with prestige and culinary history.

This moment—the chef honored by the President, serving soup at the Élysée—captured the essence of Paul Bocuse. He wasn’t just a cook. He was a cultural figure, a national treasure, and a living bridge between France’s storied gastronomic past and its bold, flavorful future. His pride in tradition, love of innovation, and unapologetic embrace of the spotlight made him a singular figure in the history of cuisine.

Though Paul Bocuse was often associated with the nouvelle cuisine movement—a lighter, more refined take on French cooking that emerged in the 1960s and 70s—he never hesitated to question its excesses. As the years went on, he distanced himself from some of the more delicate tendencies of the movement. “I don’t see the point of peas cut into quarters,” he once said with characteristic bluntness. “For me, good cooking is when you lift the lid, it steams, it smells good, and you can help yourself to seconds.” It was a philosophy rooted in generosity, simplicity, and the kind of joy that only truly satisfying food can bring.

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Beyond his own culinary creations, one of Bocuse’s greatest contributions to gastronomy came through his mentorship. His kitchens became incubators of talent, with young chefs from around the world flocking to learn under his guidance. Many of these protégés would go on to become legends in their own right. Among the most celebrated was Eckart Witzigmann, an Austrian chef who would later be named one of only four "Chefs of the Century" by Gault & Millau, and the first in Germany to earn three Michelin stars. Through his students, Bocuse’s influence spread far beyond the banks of the Saône.

By the early 1980s, Bocuse’s brand had become truly international. In a surprising partnership, he teamed up with fellow French culinary giants Roger Vergé and Gaston Lenôtre to sign a contract with Disney. Together, they took charge of the restaurants at Epcot Center in Walt Disney World, Orlando. Imagine that—classic French gastronomy served up at the heart of American family entertainment. But Bocuse wasn’t done expanding his reach. He launched his first Japanese ventures soon after, placing culinary counters in Daimaru department stores, followed by bakeries and delicatessens proudly bearing his name.

But perhaps his most lasting international legacy is the Bocuse d'Or. Launched in 1987, this biennial competition is often referred to as the Culinary Olympics—a grueling, high-pressure contest that pushes the world’s top chefs to their limits. And while it's been emulated around the globe, it still retains a unique French soul. For many, especially in the world of French cuisine, the Bocuse d'Or is the pinnacle of culinary achievement, with national pride and global prestige on the line.

Bocuse’s accolades didn’t stop with competitions he created. In 1989, he was appointed President of the Meilleur Ouvrier de France competition for the “kitchen-catering” category—the very same contest he had once won. That same year, Gault & Millau honored him with the title "Chef of the Century", a distinction he shared with Joël Robuchon and Frédy Girardet. With that, the culinary world crowned him as something even greater: the pope of gastronomy. And honestly, few titles could have suited him better.

In 1991, Bocuse became the first chef ever to be featured at the Grévin Wax Museum in Paris—a place usually reserved for royalty, pop stars, and political icons. Sculptor Daniel Druet created the wax figure, immortalizing the chef in the same pose, white jacket, and tricolor collar that had become his signature. It was yet another sign of how far Bocuse had transcended the kitchen—he was now firmly embedded in French cultural history.

Never one to sit still, Bocuse spent the 1990s expanding his culinary footprint at home. He opened his first brasserie, Le Nord, in Lyon in 1994, offering classic comfort food with his signature flair. Then came Le Sud in 1995, L’Est in 1997, L’Ouest in 2003, and Argenson in between. Each venue embraced a different regional identity, but all bore the unmistakable stamp of Bocuse—high-quality ingredients, timeless recipes, and a warm, welcoming atmosphere.

And then, in 1996, Lyon played host to the G7 International Summit, and who better to cook for the world’s most powerful leaders than Paul Bocuse? He was one of the official chefs for the summit, preparing a meal at the Museum of Contemporary Art in his hometown. It was a poetic moment: a man who had once trained in modest kitchens, now feeding presidents and prime ministers, while representing not just Lyonnais cooking, but the very best of France.

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In 2005, Paul Bocuse faced one of the few challenges that couldn’t be conquered in a kitchen—a serious health scare. He underwent triple coronary bypass surgery, a major procedure, especially at his age. But true to form, Bocuse took it in stride. Even as his body began to slow, his passion for food and hospitality never wavered.

The following year, Lyon paid tribute to its most famous son in a fittingly grand way. The Halles de Lyon, the central food market where Bocuse had sourced ingredients for decades, was renamed Les Halles de Lyon–Paul Bocuse. It wasn’t just a gesture—it was a statement. The heart of the city’s gastronomy now permanently bore his name, a daily reminder to shoppers and chefs alike of his enormous contribution to the culinary arts.

Paul Bocuse’s influence even reached into the world of animated film. In 2007, Pixar’s Ratatouille, directed by Brad Bird, introduced audiences to the lovable and lofty French chef Auguste Gusteau—a character inspired, in part, by Bocuse himself. The film’s storyline, which follows a young rat with a passion for cooking, was also influenced by the real-life struggles and triumphs of chef Bernard Loiseau. But the spirit of Gusteau—the warmth, the ambition, the enduring love for French cuisine—echoed Bocuse’s legacy. It’s no wonder Ratatouille resonated with food lovers across the globe.

In March 2011, the Culinary Institute of America—one of the most respected culinary schools in the world—honoured Bocuse with its prestigious "Chef of the Century" award at their annual Leadership Awards Gala. The tribute didn’t stop there. A year later, in July 2012, the Institute announced in The New York Times that their flagship restaurant, once named after Auguste Escoffier, would be renamed The Bocuse Restaurant, following a complete renovation. It was a symbolic handover from one culinary titan to another.

Then, on Saturday, January 20, 2018, Paul Bocuse passed away at the age of 91, after a long battle with Parkinson’s disease. Fittingly, he died at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, his beloved three-Michelin-star restaurant just outside Lyon—in the very room above the dining room where he had been born in 1926. It was the perfect circle of life for a man who had spent nearly every day of it in service to food, family, and tradition.

His son, Jérôme Bocuse, requested that no national tribute be held, believing it wasn’t what his father would have wanted. He remembered him not as a grand figure, but as a simple man—humble despite the accolades. Still, the culinary world couldn't help but mourn, and many—including chefs like Jean Imbert, Yannick Alléno, and the group Les Toques Blanches Lyonnaises—called upon President Emmanuel Macron to honour Bocuse officially. Macron answered with grace, describing him as a “mythical figure” who represented the very best of French gastronomy—its generosity, its respect for tradition, and its spirit of invention.

Paul Bocuse was laid to rest at the Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or cemetery, in the family vault. As ever, he wore his chef’s jacket, proudly displaying the tricolor collar awarded to him in 1961 when he earned the title Meilleur Ouvrier de France. Even in death, he was a cook first, and a proud servant of the craft.

And then, a little over a year later, on Thursday, June 13, 2019, Raymonde Bocuse, his wife and lifelong companion, passed away. Though their relationship was complex and unconventional, she had been a part of his journey from the very beginning. Her passing marked the end of an era—one last chapter in the story of a man who helped shape not just French cuisine, but the way the world thinks about food.

Joël Robuchon:

"Paul Bocuse was the greatest ambassador of French cuisine. He changed the way the world thinks about French cooking."

Gordon Ramsay:

"Paul Bocuse was the father of modern French cooking — a true legend and inspiration to chefs everywhere."

Julia Child:

"Paul Bocuse was a master who respected tradition but wasn’t afraid to innovate."

And that’s a wrap on this episode of Fabulously Delicious and our “The Story Of” series, where we explored the incredible life and legacy of Paul Bocuse.

What stood out most to you about Bocuse’s journey — from his family roots and personal life to his towering influence on French gastronomy? Did you discover something new about the man often called the “pope of French cuisine”? I’d love to hear your thoughts! Reach out to me on Instagram at @andrewpriorfabulously, or send an email to contact@andrewpriorfabulously.com. Let’s chat all things Bocuse, his unforgettable dishes, or any other foodie insights from today’s episode.

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Feel free to share this episode with fellow Francophiles and anyone who cherishes French cuisine and its rich history — because legends like Bocuse deserve to be remembered and celebrated.

Thank you so much for listening and joining me in honoring one of France’s greatest chefs. And as always, remember — whatever you do, do it fabulously!

Merci beaucoup, and until next time, bon appétit and au revoir!

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